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IX. Now co-add the multiple exposures of the same color (if any) either in CCDOPS or in
CCDSOFT. When the same exposure time was used for all images, you want to use
CCDSOFT’s “Combine a folder of images” feature with the “average” setting instead of
simply adding. This will help avoid clipping stars when the pixel reading in their centers
exceeds 65,000. (Recall that clipped stars will lose their color in the final image!)
X. Depending on the quality of the images at this stage you should consider sharpening
(works when there isn’t much noise; use CCDSHARP, which is a slow but very powerful
piece of software), or blurring (needed when there is too much noise; try the “Median
Filter” in CCDOPS). You may have to use the “Remove image gradient” tool in CCDOPS
when there is too much uneven background light.
These steps are fairly standard, and provide you with a set of aligned images, one for each
color, in .fit file format (the standard picture format in astronomy). You will do the
remaining work in Photoshop. Before the transition to PHOTOSHOP will make sure all your
images are as good as can be; it is a real pain to have to come back later and make changes.
XI. For the conversion to PHOTOSHOP, open each of the three-color image components. The
LIBERATOR plug-in, which is installed on these computers, starts automatically. It gives
you a panel for each image on which you must very carefully adjust the black and white
points. The correctness of these numbers is crucial; you may end up with an incorrect
choice and have to come back to this stage to redo it. You must chose the back point so
that, even in 100% view, only a small percentage of the pixels is black-clipped (shown in
blue by LIBERATOR), and that none but a few pixels are white clipped (shown green by
LIBERATOR). These black and white point settings are now final, they cannot be undone in
PHOTOSHOP as they can in CCDOPS. Once open, immediately save these images in
PHOTOSHOP format (.psd)
The rest of the image processing is not specific to astronomy, and if you like you can do it
on any computer with PHOTOSHOP CS installed on it. For that, you need to put the image files
on a jump-drive, and take it with you (attaching to an email does not work; the files are too
large for that.
XII. Use the Merge Channels utility to produce a color image (the tab is hidden:
you’ll find it if you open the Channels palette and click on the little triangle in the top
right corner). Use the RGB mode and check if the correct files are used for each color.
XIII. At this point much of the detail that is actually present on the images is still
hidden; your deep-sky object may not even be visible yet. To “dig out” objects from the
usually very large background you will need to create adjustment layers. In PHOTOSHOP,
use “Layers → New Adjustment Layer → Curves”, and change the curves. Take care of
using only linear scaling in each color channel to balance the overall color as well as to
equalize the color of the remaining background. (Linear scaling means straight curves;
nonlinear scaling invariably produces ugly colors.) Use nonlinear scaling only in the
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